Brand history: Jean Paul Gaultier – Enfant Terrible of the French fashion world
Today, over sixty -year -old designer, he has been enthusiastic about fashion at a young age. It was contributed to this … grandmother who taught the grandson of courage in approach to clothing. These early fashion experience had a great influence on a young boy. To the extent that he decided to become a fashion designer. However, this plan did not include any school, but only its own practice and hours of exercise.
I didn't go to fashion school. Since I discovered that Santa Claus exists, I was against formal education, so I owe everything I found out about fashion reading magazines and watching photos – He wrote in memories for the CNN portal.com
How to become a designer without a formal education? Jean Paul Gaultier He found a way to do it. He sketched what he could – mainly the outfits he watched on television, and sent ready sketches to French fashion houses. They could not be bad, since he drew the attention of Pierre Cardina himself, and JPG was invited to the super -Popophane team at that time (the beginning of the 70s.) brands. On the one hand, the adventure of Cardina was a dream come true, and on the other a accelerated fashion course. So good that Gaultier began to receive more and more interesting jobs. He briefly came to the French fashion house Jacques Esterel from where he came to the fashion house of Jean Patou.
Jean Paul Gaultier never hid that he was not interested in making a "common" fashion. His projects were to arouse emotions – preferably extreme, be commented – regardless of whether or wrong. And while working with someone could develop workshop, he couldn't afford to implement extravagant ideas. JPG decided to "go to his".
He showed the first collection in 1976. A'la ballerina (skirts and dresses of tutu) in combination with rock leather jackets and trappers today do not impress anyone, but in the late 70s. Gaultier's proposals were something completely revealing. This first show could take place thanks to the great determination, as well as the invaluable support of friends. The limited budget meant that Gaultier had to limit himself to second -hand materials, diy and your own creativity. This, combined with the innate ability to get the hearts of the audience.
Martin Margiela, who was a student at the time, he remembered in an interview with Vogue Emotions related to the first JPG show:
I was overwhelmed by an excitement that I have never felt before.
Less than a decade later it was Margiela who joined JPG as an assistant.
At the threshold of a career
Marek Jean Paul Gaultier literally "fired" in the 1980s. In 1983. In the Toy Boy Gaultier collection he "married" high fashion with his loved naval style. Today, thinking Gaultier, we see a smiling designer in a Breton stripes. This symbol constantly accompanies the brand and its creators.
Jean Paul Gaultier collections are a denial of everything that can be considered "typical". Women stylize men and dress men in women's clothes. Under the influence of street, club scenes and culture of Paris, 70s. and 80. Gaultier decided to break with the "convention".
His unique abilities and understanding of how to construct clothing, allowed him to put fashion on his head, challenging – competition, as well as clients. Who would have thought that JPG from underwear would make one of the most important items of clothing?
I have always tried to be honest [in relation to myself] and cross borders in the same way as [I did] earlier. I never wanted to dress [people] classically and elegantly and I quickly realized that what critics consider elegant, not always – he wrote in memories for CNN.com.
Corset for the N-Time
Probably the most famous Gaultier project is a corset that has become synonymous with the brand Jean Paul Gaultier. Designer, he invented this somewhat forgotten underwear, convincing the world that the corset can successfully replace clothes. He combined, tried, manipulated the proportions to give a feminine silhouette a clearly pointed shape from the 1950s., which he continued in more and more sharp styles and fabrics.
Anyway, his passion for historical designs was visible in almost every collection. In the spring/summer season 1995 he combined silk blouses in the Edwardian style with ribbed harem pants, and evening dresses modeled on those of the 30s., made of plastic foil in combination with plastic, bazaar necklaces. The controversial and surprising combination of fantasy about the past with rough reality has become the hallmark of Jean Paul Gaultier. Today, many would give a lot for such a strong image.
In the early 90s. Jean Paul Gaultier decided to enter the market … perfume. The female fragrance of "Classic" in the rose-vanilla aroma dressed in a unique bottle imitating the body of a woman has become a great sales hit. In 1995. The perfume "The Male" (also in the Flakon-Sculpture) was introduced to the market, which quickly gained supporters among men.
Shocking (?) shows
Talking to "Dazed" in 2013, Gaultier said:
I do not want to consolidate one specific image of a woman in my shows. I want to present what really exists. The same applies to men.
JPG shows as well as the collections were to shock. The designer never was afraid to talk loudly about the problems of society and the surrounding world. Gaultier as one of the first opening supported sexual minorities.
The designer sent a group of men and women- old and young, different nationalities and cultures to the collection of the collection for spring/summer 1991. The show was attended by M.in. Stars of the New York ballet scene – José Overall Father Xtravaganza and Kevin Stea. The models went hand in hand, danced, exchanged clothes (all during the show!). At the end show Gaultier escaped to kiss Madonna sitting in the first place. In the spring of 2005, instead of a show, Gaultier organized … a wedding. The viewers took part in the spectacle, which was a designer's commentary to a debate in France on single -sex marriages. Models and models of the same sex were strolling around the catwalk, imitating young couples in front of the viewers.
From the first show Gaultier put on unique models and models. Tattooed, trance models, models plus size – Everyone had a chance to appear on the catwalk at Gaultier. The JPG shows were also attended by M.in. Dita von Teese, Beth Dito or Drag Conchita Wurst Wurst Winner Eurovision Winner. At the spring collection show haute couture In 2008, he designed a unique pair of balls, which was supported by the model Coco Rocha.
For Gaultier, integration and diversity have become an inseparable part of the design philosophy. His clothes are funny, extravagant, sometimes shocking, but made absolutely for everyone.
"Fashion Freak Show"
He prepared a real treat for Gaultier fans last year. "Fashion Freak Show" is a combination of a cabaret, a fashion show and a comedy – Rewia?
"Fashion Freak Show" is a story about the life of the designer. Dance extravagance, which talks about the early years of study at Gaultier's school, the first steps in the fashion world, the debut show in the 70s., history of the 90s., To this day. This summer, "Fashion Freak Show" will be available in London, about the preparations for the revue, a document was also created. Chic and scream ”, dir. Yann L’Unutret. Film can be watched as part of the ongoing festival MDAG.
Cast “ The Fashion Freak Show ”, Source: America.France.FR
In addition to working on your own brand, covering the line Ready to Wear, collections haute couture (which was founded in 1997) and the line very well received on the perfu market ,, Jean Paul Gaultier also took on other challenges. One of them was the replacement of Martin Margiela (yes, yes – his former assistant!) as the main designer of the brand Hermès. The owners of a luxury fashion house were looking for a way to restore their former splendor, especially after the slightly weaker recent years of Margiela's "rule". The fashion world doubted the success of this project. And yet – Jean Paul Gaultier spent seven fruitful years in Hermès, leaving the French fashion house in 2010 to focus on his own brand.
Interestingly, this project did not last long, because only 4 years. In 2014. Gaultier announced that he was closing the line Ready to Wear, to focus on your couture line. Reason? Frustration with an increasingly tense schedule in the fashion industry. In an interview with WWD.com explained:
Trade restrictions, and yesWithe crazy pace of the collection, do not leave WithnoŚyou nor necessaryętime to look fornew ideas and introducesfool innovations.
Show in 2010/2011 Hermes fashion house, source: Porsugar.What.UK
A designer who likes to cooperate
The eccentric wizard infected others with his ideas, but he probably got along best with Madonna. Equally avant -garde, open to the new artist, she loved Gaultier's aesthetics. It was for her that the designer created the whole collection of unique corsets in which she performed during concert tours – "Blond Ambition World Tour 90 ″, “ DROWNED World Tour 2001 ”, “ Confessions Tour". Madonna persuaded to parade topless after the catwalk. It was cooperation with the Pop Queen that made him a designer recognized far outside the fashion industry.
Designer with Madonna, source: Pinterest.com
JPG also has M.in. Cooperation with the Coke diet (COLI diet bottle design), he was also led by television show "Eurotrash".
ADVERTISEMENT LIMITED EDITOR OF DIET Coke by JPG, Source: YellowTrace.com
Jean Paul Gaultier x Supreme
Despite parting with the world of "fast fashion", the industry has not forgotten about Gaultier. And he did not forget about fashion. In addition to work on haute couture, JPG returns to more mundane projects from time to time. One of them is the last collection in cooperation with one of the hottest brands currently streetwear- Supreme.
From the very beginning I included elements of sportswear in my collections. This is one of my codes, my obsession. In the late 1980s. I even developed a line, Junior Gaultier. Thanks to Supreme, this inspiration will go to the new generation – explained in an interview with "Vogue".
The collection is typical for supreme, but with finish made by JPG. Graphic suit, red pants with the inscription "Fuck Racism", bars, stripes, lots of stripes, prints. Lourdes Leon was the face of the collection, or … Madonna's daughter.
Fashion and movie
In addition to the catwalk collections, JPG had the opportunity to use his creativity on the film set. It is the Frenchman who is responsible for the costumes in such horse hits as "Kika" Pedro Almodovar or "Cook, thief, his wife and her lover" directed by Peter Greenawa.
In Luc Besson's "Fifth Element" – still considered one of the most important costume films in history – Dressed the cast of cyborgs, aliens and muscular Bruce ’ and Willisa in costumes sci-fi. His vision of the costumes of the future was a mixture of kitsch and Kamp – Especially in the case of Milli Jovovich, Leeloo Dallas.
For his involvement in film activities, he was awarded to the jury 65. Film Festival in Cannes.
Jean Paul Gaultier at the premiere of the film “ fifth element ”, source: Pinterest.com
Gaultier has changed so many things: creative process, fashion sexuality– said Nicolas Ghesquière, today creative director Louis Vuitton, previously an JPG assistant in an interview with WWD.com.
In 2001, the designer was awarded the National Order of the Legia of Honor. In March 2010, he received "Inspiration Award" for his life contribution to the development of men's fashion and the fight against AIDS.
Designer at the award ceremony with the National Order of the Legia of Honor, Source: Pinterest.com
Looking "from a bird's eye view" at the brand created by Jean Paul Gaultier, as well as the philosophy of the designer himself, there is no doubt that his activities were extremely enriched by the fashion world, but also pop culture in general. Even being outside the industry, which has already tired him a lot, Gaultier is still one of its most expressive insider.